Cameo 4 Foil Quill Alternative

Hi Everyone!

This week I wanted to share with you another brand of heated foil quill that you can use with your Cameo 4. It comes with an adapter specifically designed to fit the Cameo 4 machine. I found it on Amazon a few weeks ago and I decided to try it out.

Craft Express Heat Foil Pen Scrapbooking Tool with USB Cable for Cricut Maker Explore,Silhouette Cameo 4 Plus Pro,for Cards Leather Craft Making

Craft Express

Buy on Amazon

For now, it looks like it’s only available with one tip size. It seems similar to the medium tip foil quill from We R Memory Keepers.

Note: The adapter that comes with this does NOT fit the We R Memory Keepers Foil Quills.

I placed the foil quill in slot 1 in my Cameo 4 carriage and plugged it in. This foil quill still needs to be plugged into a USB power source like the We R Memory Keepers Foil Quills. I used one of my small portable chargers.

The pen temperature can supposedly be set to 2 different levels. I’m not sure how that works, when I plug it in the switch has a red light or green light. For this initial testing, I have it on the green light.

I have some simple concentric circles that I made in Silhouette Studio to test it out. I’m using some heavy cardstock and the We R Memory Keepers Gold Foil.

After giving it a few minutes to warm up, I loaded my mat into the machine and pressed Send.

I used the Heavy Coverstock material setting, force of 5, speed 2. You might need to play around with the settings depending on your materials. It didn’t tear the foil at all and it did a really nice job of foiling!

After it was done, I turned off the quill and removed it from my machine. Warning!! It gets much hotter than the We R Memory Keepers foil quill, even with the adapter around it. Be very careful when handling it, even if you just unplugged it. It even made slot 1 of my machine very warm, so I’m not sure if I would use it for a long period of time.

Other than that, it did a really nice job. My only wish is that they would offer additional tip sizes like a fine tip and a bold tip.

Silhouette Cameo 4 Fine Tip Foil Quill Adapter

Hi Everyone!

Links in this article may be affiliate links.

It’s been a few weeks since my last post, but during that time I got a Cameo 4 and I’ve been playing around with it a little bit.

As you probably already know, the We R Memory Keepers Foil Quill is one of my favorite tools to use with my cutting machines. I see a lot of people having trouble using the Fine Tip Foil Quill in particular with the Cameo 4 and Portrait machines. I got my fine tip to work pretty well with my Portrait 3, and I tried it out with the same settings on my Cameo 4. Those settings didn’t work with my Cameo 4 and I actually broke the tip off my foil quill. Oops!!

I ended up buying a new Fine Tip foil quill and I finally figured out a better way to keep it from ripping my foil and breaking the tip. It’s so simple and, I can’t believe I didn’t think of this sooner!

All you need is some cardstock. I’m using a 100lb cardstock, so it’s a little thicker. But you can use whatever you have on hand.

I created an 18mm (0.71in) circle in Silhouette Studio with a 12.5mm (0.49in) circle inside. So now I have basic ring. I duplicated it a few times, depending on the thickness of your cardstock, you may need more than one, you can stack them on top of each other.

I cut the rings with my Cameo machine using the Heavy Coverstock setting and the Autoblade.

I placed the ring on top of the D adapter. I know the Foil quill says the A adapter is for Silhouette machines, but that’s for the Cameo 3 and previous models. For the Portrait 3 and Cameo 4 you need the D adapter, which is really supposed to be for a Sissix machine.

Then I screw my Fine Tip foil quill into the adapter. The cardstock ring keeps it just slightly above the top edge of the adapter, and it also helps keep the tip from wiggling around in the adapter. I already tried not screwing the tip all the way into the adapter and it wobbles around to much when you are trying to draw with it.

If you are using a thinner cardstock, you might need to use 2 or 3 rings stacked on top of each other.

Next, I’m going to test it without being plugged in or with any foil. I’m checking to make sure the tip actually reaches the cardstock I’m going to be foiling. My foil quill is loaded into slot 1 on the carriage.

I have a scrap piece of cardstock on my mat and I’m going to test with the Coverstock, Heavy material setting, force of 5, speed of 2, action is sketch, tool is pen.

I run it though my machine without the quill plugged in and no foil. I can see that the tip leaves a slight indent in the cardstock. You want to make sure the tip isn’t digging in too deep, or it will rip your foil. This looks like a good depth, so next I’m going to test it with some foil.

I plug in my foil quill and cover my piece of cardstock with foil. I’m using the We R Memory Keepers brand of foil.

I run it through my machine with the same settings Heavy Coverstock, Force 5, speed 2.

It makes it through without tearing the foil.

It looks great after removing the foil!

Depending on the materials you use, your settings may be different from mine. If you want to try using the Fine Tip Foil Quill on thicker materials, you can try adding some more rings to help raise the tip higher up and away from the mat.

Making Pins using Black Shrink Plastic and the Foil Quill

Hi Everyone!

This week I’m going to share a fun little project you can make with your WRMK Foil quill, black shrink plastic, and a single line SVG file.

Supplies:

(Links to items below may be affiliate links)

Single line SVG file (I will be using one from my Celestial collection)

Black shrink plastic

WRMK Medium tip Foil quill (the mint one)

WRMK gold foil

Silhouette or Cricut machine that is compatible with the WRMK Foil Quill (I will be using my Portrait 3)

Light grip cutting mat

Deep cut blade (I will be using my CB09 holder with a 60 degree blade)

Heat gun or toaster oven

Pin backing

Glue

Let’s get started!

I’ve got my Single line SVG file opened in Silhouette Studio. I want to make this into a round pin that will end up being approximately 1 inch in diameter.

I will draw a 2” circle since my shrink plastic will shrink about 50 percent.

Now I need to scale down my art to fit inside the circle.

I’m going to draw and cut this by line color, so I will be keep my artwork in black and the circle in red.

I cut down my black shrink plastic sheet to a 2.75 x 2.75 inch square. I also cut down my foil to a smaller square.

We’re going to do the foiling first. I’m going to place my back shrink plastic a little further down on the mat so it’s easier to remove the foil once it’s done.

Make sure everything is taped down well to your mat so nothing shifts while foiling and cutting.

I’m using the Medium foiling tip. My Material is set to Coverstock, Heavy. The action is set to Sketch, tool is set to Pen. The force is set to 7 and speed is 5.

After it’s done foiling, do NOT remove the mat! Carefully remove the foil.

Now it’s time to cut. I’m using my CB09 blade holder with a 60 degree blade. I selected Acetate for the material. Tool is the Deep Cut blade, depth is 10, force is 33, speed is 3. Number of Passes is set to 10 which is the most Silhouette Studio will allow.

After the first 10 passes, do not remove the mat from the machine. Carefully dust of any little plastic particles and send it through again for another 10 passes.

Once it’s done with the 2nd set of ten passes, do NOT remove the mat. Dust off any little plastic particles again. You can carefully lift a corner of the shrink plastic off the mat to see if it’s close to be cut through. Just make sure you don’t accidentally shift the placement on the mat.

I typically have to make 30-40 total passes, even then it’s not always cut all the way through, but it’s enough I can carefully pop it out.

Here it is before shrinking so you can get an idea of the size difference.

Now it’s time to shrink it! I’m going to be using my heat gun and little metal spatula on some teflon sheeting. But you can also follow the instructions that come with your shrink plastic and do it in a toaster oven.

Once it’s done shrinking, while the plastic is still warm, you can use a metal spatula or other flat object to help flatten your piece.

The shrink plastic doesn't shrink perfectly even, so my circle is now a little lopsided, but it’s not too bad. I love how the gold foil keeps all the little details and still adds a little bit of shine. I haven’t noticed the gold foil scratching off, so it’s up to you if you want to apply some sort of sealer on top.

I’m going to glue my pin onto the back ,and now it’s finished and ready to go on a jacket, a bag, a hat, or anywhere else you like to add pins!

Creating Gouache Style Clip Art in Procreate to Use With Your Cricut or Silhouette Machine

Hi Everyone!

The last few weeks I showed you my process for how I create and test my single line SVG files. If single line SVGs aren’t really your thing, for the next few weeks I’m going to share with you some other methods for how I create artwork to use with my Cricut or Silhouette machine.

Since I already have this nice outline of my Capricorn, I’m going to use it as a guide to do a full color gouache-style version in Procreate on my iPad Pro. I’ll be able to use my finished artwork as clip art for stickers and other things.

Procreate is one of my absolute favorite apps for the iPad. It is a paid app, but it’s worth every penny in my opinion. It comes with some great brushes already included, there are numerous brush sets you can purchase from other artists, or you can even create you own custom brushes.

Today, I’m going to use a combination of brushes that are included with Procreate and some brushes that I have purchased. But you can absolutely create your own artwork using just the brushes that are already come with Procreate. Let’s get started!

I’m going to open my file that contains my line work for my Capricorn single line file. You can also start with a rough sketch too. I’m going to lower the opacity of this layer to about 10%, it’s visible but won’t interfere with my painting on top too much.

I like to work in a lot of layers, I think it’s easier to make adjustments to individual layers if I need to make any changes the further I get into my drawing or painting. I’m going to start with the tail first and I’m just going to fill in my base layer without any details. I’m using the Round Smooth Semi Wet brush from Lisa Glanz’s Gouache brush set. This is one of my favorite brush sets that I have purchased, I love using these brushes for my gouache style artwork.

The initial color I started with is a litter darker than I wanted, so I’m going to use Hue, Saturation, Brightness to adjust the color to my liking.

I will use the color picker tool (the little square between the brush sliders) to grab the new adjusted color. Then I will continue to fill in the tail.

I like to have separate layer for each base color. Once I’m finished with the tail, I’m going to fill in the body on it’s own layer.

After the body, I fill in the horns and hooves on their own layer.

Now I’m going to go in and do some detail work with the Peppermint pencil. This is one of my brushes that is already included with Procreate. The details for the body will be on their own layer and the details for the tail and horns will be on their own layer.

After I’m done with the details, i’m going to go back and add some shadows and highlights with the Thick Sticky brush from Bardot Brushes Gouache Paintbox set. Since I’m working with layers, I can sandwich my shadows and highlight between my pencil details and my base layers.

Looking at my drawing/ painting, I want the pencil lines to be a little darker, so I set my layers to Multiply. I still want to to be a little darker, so I swipe left on the layer and duplicate them a few times. Now it’s to my liking!

To use this file as a print and cut, I will need to export it as a PNG, this will give it a transparent background and will merge all my layers. If I want to make any color adjustments, I can always go back to my layered file in Procreate and re-export it.

Creating Your Own Single Line SVG Files - Part Two

Hi Everyone!

This week is part two of how to create your own single line SVG files. I’m going to share with you how I take my sketch from Procreate and use the Adobe Illustrator app on my iPad Pro to create the SVG file.

Last week exported my file from Procreate as a JPEG. I’m going to bring that file into the Illustrator app by selecting the picture icon in the tool bar on the left and finding that file on my iPad.

You can adjust the size of the image, I typically keep my pretty large at this point. I’m going to add a new layer above my sketch layer, then I’m going to lock my sketch layer.

I typically start with a basic out line of my image and then fill in all the little details on a separate layer. You need to use either the pencil tool or the pen tool to create a single line SVG. This is so your image is made up of individual paths and not filled shapes. I’m going to use the pencil tool since it feels most natural when I’m tracing my image using my Apple Pencil.

I’m going to start tracing the outline of the horns with my pencil. If you need to stop and lift up your pencil, you can continue that same line again by selecting the path and start drawing at one of the end points.

Now, you can choose the draw the rest of the outline or start refining each section as you go along. I’m going to refine each section as I go along. Using the Direct selection tool, I can delete anchor points, change curved points to sharp angles and vice versa.

After the outline is complete, I will create a new layer for the details.

I do the details by sections in the drawing. As you can see, I simplified the scales on the fish tale from my original drawing. Now is great time to make any adjustments to your drawing. Once I finish the details, I make each section a subgroup in my layer.

Now it’s time to export this file as SVG. Click on the box with the arrow in the upper right tool bar across the top in the app. Select “Publish and export.”

On the left side of the screen, select “Export as.”

In the drop down next to Format, select SVG and click the blue Export button.

I’m going to select “Save to Files.”

Then I select the “Illustrator” folder. Next week I will show you how to test this file using the Cricut App on my iPad.

Creating Your Own Single Line SVG Files - Part One

Hi Everyone!

One of my goals this year is to create more SVG files to add here and my Etsy shop. There are a lot of SVG cut files available out there, but not as many single line or draw files. I thought I would share my process for how I create my single line SVG files.

I start off by trying to come up with an idea for a collection of files, this year I want to do all of the zodiac symbols. Since we’re still in January, I’m going to start off with Capricorn, which is often depicted as a sea goat.

I love using Pinterest to gather inspiration and I created a board where I’m collecting images of all the different zodiac symbols. I’ll keep adding to this board as I work my way through all the zodiac signs.

After I’ve gathered a few images I go through them and I start to pick out what parts I like from each image.

I really like how the fish tails loop around on these.

I think I want a profile view for the head.

Next, I’m going to start creating a rough sketch on my iPad Pro in one of my favorite apps, Procreate. If you don’t have an iPad, you can also do your sketch the good old fashioned way with pencil and paper.

I would like for these to fit on a round shape like a key ring or coaster, so I’m going to start out. with a circle shape and keep my design within that shape.

I like to sketch with the Peppermint Pencil, it’s one of the brushes that comes with Procreate. It’s almost like sketching with a real pencil!

Another great thing about Procreate is you can have your reference image in a separate little window inside Procreate.

Or you can do a split screen with Procreate and Pinterest.

I’m going to work with my reference image in a window in Procreate. So I take some screenshots of my Pinterest images that I will be referencing.

After I work out my sketch, I can either take a screenshot, save it as a JPEG or PNG file to bring into the Illustrator app.

If you made your sketch on regular paper, you will need to scan you image so you can bring it into Illustrator or another vector program of your choice.

Next week I will share with you how I turn my sketch into vector line art in the Illustrator App on my iPad.

Planner Stickers with the WRMK Foil Quill

Happy New Year!

The new year is always a great time to make a fresh start with a new planner. I bought a planner notebook last year, but I didn’t realize it only had pages for 6 months and a bunch of blank pages at the end. After I filled up the 6 months , I kind of stopped using it. So this year, I’m going to make my own calendar/ planner pages and hopefully keep myself on track for this year!

Supplies: (links below may be affiliate links)

My Single line SVG files or another file you may have

Clear Sticker Paper

WRMK Fine Tip Foil Quill (the pink one)

WRMK Gold foil or heat reactive foil of your choice

Silhouette Portrait 3

Light Grip cutting mat

Autoblade

I created some single line SVG files for the months, days and dates. I’m going to test them out with my WRMK Foil Quill and some clear matte sticker paper.

I bought this clear matte sticker paper on Amazon. Unfortunately, when I received it I realized it has a slit down the back carrier paper which is not disclosed in the product description. I should have read more of the reviews! It’s not a problem for this project since I’m trimming the paper down to foil it.

I’m trimming my sticker paper down to 5.5 inches x 4.25 inches. You don’t have to do this, but I have an easier time foiling with smaller pieces.

I have all of my months set up to fit on one 5.5 inch x 4.25 sheet in Silhouette Studio and now it’s time to foil!

I’m using the fine tip foil quill (the pink one) with the D adapter, since my letters and numbers get pretty small.

I’ve got my sticker paper on my light grip mat approximately where it is shown in Silhouette studio and my foil is taped down tightly on all four sides.

After some initial testing with this sticker paper I created a custom material setting:

Action: Sketch

Force: 2

Speed: 2

Passes: 1

After it’s done foiling, do not remove your mat from the machine! Carefully remove the foil and place the Autoblade in carriage 1.

I want my stickers to be kiss cut, so the blade will not cut through the backing paper on the stickers. I added the following settings to my custom material:

Action: Cut

Force: 25

Speed: 4

Passes: 1

I repeat the same process for the days of the week and the dates.

Now my stickers are ready to be added to my calendar template!

3D Cardstock Snowflakes

Hi Everyone! It’s almost the end of 2021, this year has flown by! I’ve been spending the past couple of weeks planning new projects and files to share on my website and Etsy shop. Christmas may be over, but it’s still winter in some parts of the world, so I thought I would share part of a project I’ve been working on. It’s a pretty simple one you can do on a snowy afternoon!

Supplies:

(links below may be affiliate links)

Cutting machine (I will be using my Portrait 3, but you can also use a Cricut or other cutting machine)

Light Grip cutting mat

Snowflake cut file (You can download the one I’m using here for free)

Lightweight cardstock (I’m using foil cardstock, 2 different colors)

Glue stick or tape runner

Ribbon, twine or fishing line to hang the snowflakes

First open the SVG file in Silhouette Studio and adjust the size of the snowflake to your liking and will fit to your materials. Since I’m using two different colors of cardstock, I’m making my snowflakes pretty large.

I have one snowflake with a hole added at the top for hanging and one snowflake without the hole at the top.

I’m using my light grip cutting mat. I initially tried to do the matless, but the angles are a little too tight to get a nice pop out cut.

My foil cardstock feels a little heavier than my regular 65lb cardstock and the lightweight cardstock settings didn’t cut all the way through with my test cut. I got the best cut results using the Heavy Coverstock settings. The settings you see are for my CB09 blade since my auto blade is a little too dull to cut cardstock. You can use the default auto blade settings for Heavy Coverstock if you are using your auto blade.

I cut one color first, then I cut the same shapes from the 2nd color.

Next, I’m going to glue my pieces together, I’m using my tape runner, but you could also use a glue stick. I’m going to glue the two pieces with the hole at the top together. Then I’m going to glue the two pieces without the hole in the top together. Make sure the slit lines match up on the two pieces without the hole in the top.

Then I’m going to slide the two pieces together along the slits until they meet in the middle.

Now you can add ribbon, twine, or fishing line through the hole at the top to hang your snowflake!

Portrait 3 Print and Cut Gift Labels

Hi Everyone! Only a few more days until Christmas and I’ve still got quite a bit of gift wrapping to do! I always seem to run out of the little sticker gift tags very quickly. So this week I’m going to share a quick way to make your own using my Portrait 3 and the Print and Cut feature.

To do this project you will need the following: (links below may be affiliate links)

Some clip art (you can download my snowflake here for free)

Printable Sticker Paper (I’m using this one from Online labels)

Inkjet or laser printer

Silhouette Portrait 3

Autoblade

I’m going to open Silhouette Studio and create a new file. I’m using the business version, yours may look slightly different if you do not have the business version.

I turn on the registration marks so I know where to place my artwork and these will also be printed to the machine knows where to cut.

I’m going to do these matless (I love being able to cut stickers matless!) So under the Design area menu my Cutting Mat will be set to None. My Media size is Letter 8.5 x 11.

I load my snowflake PNG file (it’s pretty big when I first bring it in) and I scale it down to about 2 inches. You can scale it to whatever size you wish. I’m also going to change the red lines around the snowflake to transparent so they don’t print later.

Then I’m going to create an offset around the outside of the snowflake, this will be my cut line. I make my offset 0.125 inches from the edge of the snowflake.

Next, I’m going to make a rounded rectangle so I can add a To and From area onto my label. I make my rectangle approximately 2 inches wide by 0.75 inches tall.

The I’m going to Weld my rectangle and the offset cutline together so I have one continuous shape to cut.

I add the To and From text in the rectangle area. I’m using the Lucida Grande font at 10pt. You can use whatever font you prefer.

I’m going to group everything together and now my label is ready to be duplicated. I can fit 9 of these labels within the print and cut area. Make sure your artwork is NOT falling into the grey mesh areas too much, it can mess with the machine when it’s trying to scan the registration lines.

Now it’s time to print my labels! First, I tried printing directly from Silhouette Studio and I got some glitchy lines in the To and From letters. So instead of printing directly from Silhouette Studio, I’m going to save my design as a PDF and print from Photoshop.

To save your file as a PDF from Silhouette Studio, click on the printer icon. Then in the bottom left corner, click on the dropdown menu and select Save as PDF. Name your file and save it to where ever you want on your computer.

Open the PDF that you just saved in Photoshop, or other application the can print PDFs if your don’t have Photoshop. Make sure you DO NOT scale the file when you print it. Now everything looks like it’s supposed to!

Back in Silhouette Studio, I’m going to the Send tab and I always like to cut my files by Line color. My cut lines are red, so I make sure the box is checked next to the red square. I want my stickers to be kiss cut so my setting are as follows - Material is Sticker Paper, White; Blade depth: 2; Force: 14; Speed: 3.

I load my printed sticker paper with out the mat and press Send in Silhouette Studio.

My machine scans the registration marks and starts cutting. Once it’s finished I have a set of little snowflake gift labels to help me finish my gift wrapping!

DIY Gift Card Envelopes

Hi Everyone! This week I want to share a quick and easy way to make gift card envelopes.

Supplies:

(Links below may be affiliate links)

Silhouette Portrait 3 or other cutting machine

Portrait 3 Light grip mat

Bevel quill with D adapter from Foil Quill or scoring stylus with Silhouette Pen adapter

Auto Blade

My A2 Envelope template or any other envelope template you may have

Lightweight printed or plain cardstock

Gold adhesive foil or any adhesive vinyl of your choice

Vinyl transfer Tape

Glue or tape

To start, I overprinted some of my 65lb lightweight cardstock with a marble design I created in Procreate. You can use plain cardstock or any printed cardstock you already have on hand.

I’ve got the A2 envelope SVG already uploaded into Silhouette Studio. I have my score lines in Blue and my Cut lines in Red.

I will do the score lines first, so I’ve got my Bevel quill loaded with the D adapter from my Foil Quill. Settings are Sketch action, Force of 33, Speed 2. Your settings may vary depending on your materials

After it’s done scoring, I will use my Autoblade to cut the red lines. Settings are Plain Cardstock, Blade depth 4, Force 20, Speed 4

Next I created my word layout in Adobe Illustrator using the font Blenny Black. I outlined my letters and saved them as an SVG so I can import my file into Silhouette Studio. (I’m using the Business version).

You can use another font that you already have and you can also create your lettering directly in Silhouette Studio.

I’m going to cut my letters out my adhesive gold foil with my Auto Blade set to Vinyl, Metallic Material; Blade Depth 1; Force 10; Speed 5. Depending on what type of vinyl you use, your settings may vary.

After cutting, I weed out the excess foil and apply the transfer tape to the foil.

I’m going to peel off the backing of the foil letters and center my design on the front of the envelope (Just eyeballed it, but you can lightly mark on your cardstock with a pencil if you want to be more precise).

Carefully remove the transfer tape and make sure my letters are secured onto the cardstock.

Then I’m going to fold along the score lines and use my tape runner to seal the edges of the envelope.

Add your gift card, close the envelope with either glue, a tape runner, or a sticker and it’s ready for gifting!

Blade Replacement Alternatives for Portrait 3

Hi Everyone!

I’ve been cutting a lot of gift tags the past few weeks and I noticed my Auto Blade that came with my machine is getting dull. I searched on Amazon for a replacement and one single Autoblade is $16.99, yikes!! You have to replace the whole thing, not just the little blade inside.

So I did a little research and I found this CB09 blade that should work with the Portrait 3 and Cameo 4, you just need to put it in the Blue Tool Adapter, before inserting it into your machine.

**Links may be affiliate links and I may earn a small commission if items are purchased via the links.

EVISWIY Blade CB09 for Silhouette Graphtec Holder with 15psc Vinyl Fabric Cutting Blades (30/45/60 Degree) for Silhouette Cameo 1 2 3 4/Portrait/Curio/Graphtec 6000/CE 5000-60 Plotter

EVISWIY

Buy on Amazon

I got mine a couple of days ago and I decided to try it out. It is a little bit of a process to set it up, but it seems like it’s going to be well worth it.

I’m going to test on some of my heavy cardstock, so I’m going to use one of the 45 degree blades with the red tip. I also need one of the little springs that comes with the blades.

Carefully remove the red rubber tip and slide the tiny spring onto the blade.

Then, unscrew with black plastic barrel on the blade holder. Insert the blade with the spring into the body of the holder. There’s a small hole with a magnet inside that will grab the blade when you insert it into the holder.

Screw the black plastic barrel back onto the holder.

I still have my dull auto blade and the blade depth is set to 7 which is what I use for my heavy cardstock. I’m going to twist the ridged silver metal portion of the holder so the blade is peeking out at approximately the same distance as my auto blade. It’s barely showing at the tip of the holder.

Now I’m going to put the entire holder into the Blue tool adapter, and snap it closed.

Time to load it into my Portrait 3 machine!

In Silhouette Studio I made a small 0.5 inch square to test.

In the send tab, I’m going to select Heavy Coverstock as my material and Ratchet blade as my tool. I want to try my blade depth on 7, Force of 30 and 1 pass.

I load my mat and send it through my machine. I lifted my cardstock off the mat to see if the cut went all the way through. It didn’t quite cut all the way, so I will try one more pass.

After the second pass, it cut all the way through. So now I’m going to save these material settings in Silhouette Studio.

So now my blade is set up to cut heavy cardstock. If I want to cut other materials, I will need to adjust the blade depth by turning the ridged silver part of the CB09 holder. There are no markings on the holder, so I will probably add a sticker and draw some lines on it so I know where I had my blade set for different materials.

This blade did a very nice cut, and with all the replacement blades it came with, it’s a fraction of the cost of the Auto Blade. I’m excited to see how long these blades last!